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Thoughts upon leaving Incredible India PDF   Email
Sâmbătă, 21 Aprilie 2012 15:38
34 days. Open mind and heart. Minimal planning. Faith. Amazement.
 
Hating India is probably the easiest thing you can do in this world. There are 1001 reasons to do so, from the crowds, smells, loudness, uncleanness, harassment, lack of facilities, poor services, constant staring, unsafety, lack of toilet paper, beggars, horny fellas... etc... etc... etc.
 
Looking back at my Facebook statuses, I realised something interesting: they were all positive! They were all beaming with joy and adventure and love and... well... chai. And then i asked myself, how is that possible? I'm pretty sure i had some low moments as well, there were definitely times when i was upset and angry and frustrated, times when i was sick and in pain, physical and emotional, times when i asked myself what i was doing there, times when i was tormented by the idea of injustice, and unfairness, and trusting or not trusting... times when it all became so overwhelming, that i could not hold it in anymore and spilled my tears and my heart out in an ashram, in front of a crowd and a swamiji who had only to put his hand on his heart to let me know that he felt me completely, that he knew... and that all was well as it was...
 
India broke my heart into a thousand pieces. And because of that i was able to not only see it, but feel it. And feeling it had nothing to do with the unpleasant sites, the noises, the smells... feeling it had to do with the people, the spirit, with the core of this nation who wants nothing more than what we all want and will ever want - to be happy! In whichever shape or form...
 
 
I had been to exactly 30 other countries before i landed in India. I always loved capturing the essence of each through pictures and words. But the moment i landed in India, the realisation hit me so hard that it hurt - it was going to be absolutely impossible for me to capture even 1% of what this country was about, no matter how many photos, movies and words...
 
In my first week in India i was taking an average of 200 photos a day, still desperate to capture as much as i could... Quickly that number fell to half, a quarter, a tenth... until, in my last few days there, i would even forget to take my camera out for the whole day... I had surrendered to taking the picture in my mind alone, knowing that to someone who has not seen it live it would only convey a small portion of the meaning, emotion, intensity. Knowing that i will want to keep that picture in my mind forever, while also knowing that i will be back there again, to feel it all again... there could be no other way!!
Knowing that, indeed, everyone out there should experience India at least once in their lifetime - but not only with their eyes - that would be futile!
 
I've loved many places i've seen in this world, and I wished I could have stayed there longer. But when I wept from the bottom of my heart knowing I would not be in a particular place the next day... that's when I knew I had found a place my heart would never forget, a place I would always go back to.
 
My Facebook statuses were all positive because at the end of each day, in front of my keyboard, no matter how bruised I was, none of the small irritating things mattered anymore... they had all been washed away, and what stayed with me at the end of each eventful day was only that: joy, adventure, love and... chai.
 
Hating India is the easiest thing you can do in this world.
Loving it was heart breaking.
Leaving it was painful.
Missing it will be always.
 
Ganduri dupa 12 luni de vagabondaj cu rucsacul in spate PDF   Email
Sâmbătă, 11 Februarie 2012 07:54

366 de zile e cea mai lunga perioada cat am fost pe drum dintr-o bucata. Cu ras, cu plans si cu invatat, cu crescut, cu inteles, cu acceptat, cu multumit. Si acum e momentul sa merg mai departe, spre un nou (de fapt vechi, si pentru mine si el in sine) continent. Sfârşitul acestei experienţe e începutul alteia: ACASA! “Gura rade si sufletul tremura”... cam asta se intampla prin zona mea.

 

In ultimele 12 luni am dormit în mai mult de 100 de paturi ... canapele, saltele, podele, corturi, autobuze, barci, avioane. Am mancat la mai mult de 500 de mese. Ne-am deplasat cu ajutor de avion, autobuz, jeep, masina, bicicleta, cal, camila, elefant, tuk-tuk, microzbuz, barca, feribot, tren, barca de rafting, metrou, propriile două picioare, autobuze mari, autobuze mici, autocare de lux, autobuze vechi de 100 de ani, motociclete, lifturi, ricsa, scooter, caruta.

Din cele 12 luni, am fost oaspete timp de 5.

Am petrecut vreme intr-un ashram hindus pe marginea raului Ganga, apoi am schimbat continentele pentru o săptămână în compania unui preot incas. Am fost la biserică de Paşte cu chilieni foarte catolici, şi apoi am petrecut trei săptămâni într-un parc ecologic Hari Krishna in Argentina. Am meditat în tăcere timp de 10 zile în timpul unei retrageri de meditaţie budista, si apoi am petrecut 2 luni în Peru cu vindecători, şamani şi persoane ce urmeaza Calendarul Maya.

 

Am incetat sa fiu turista destul de devreme, şi în schimb am devenit călătoare in lume (distinctia intre cele doua, cum o vad eu, fiind faptul ca prima categorie traiesc experienta in principal cu ochii si mintea, pe cand ce-a de-a doua isi afla inimile transformate). Asta sunt si voi fi. Pentru moment însă, o mare etapă e pe cale să se încheie, şi alta pe cale să înceapă. Incertitudinea abunda peste tot prin jur, dar un lucru ştiu sigur: sunt extrem de recunoscătoare pentru experienta si suportul de care am avut parte in utimele 12 luni, si pentru toti oamenii grozav de speciali pe care ii am in viata mea, la orice dstanta si in orice locatie. Vă mulţumesc!


Deci … imi e “frica” de mersul acasă?
Cuvântul e "speriata de moarte"!
Am plecat de acasă acum patru ani pentru o experienţă de un an în Singapore, deoarece cunoastea Asiei era ceva ce trebuia să-mi "
scot din sistem" înainte de a ma “aşeza la casa mea". Acum, patru ani mai târziu, sunt conştienta că explorarea, calatoriile şi descoperirile sunt lucruri ce niciodata nu-mi vor "ieşi din sistem". Pentru ca nu e un hobby, nu un vis, nu ceva pe lista mea de “lucruri de facut in viata inainte sa mor”. E în schimb cine sunt eu. E o parte din mine, la fel cum si eu sunt o parte din aceeaşi lume pe care ard sa o explorez. Cunoasterea ei mă ajută să mă cunosc pe mine mai bine, si faptul ca mă înţeleg mai bine pe mine mă ajută să înţeleg mai mult lumea din jur. O relaţie reciprocă ce am găsit ca, pentru mine, chiar functioneaza.

Stiu ce ma aşteaptă o dată ce ajung acasă? Nici cea mai vaga idee! Ei bine, de fapt nu e complet adevarat, unele lucruri le pot deja vedea
în ochiul mintii: legiuni de membri ai familiei extinse, zîmbind de la o ureche la alta "esti in sfarsit acasă, te aşteptam de cand..." (adevărul e ca probabil din ziua după ce am plecat). O mulţime de prieteni, vechi şi nu atât de vechi, unii cu care imi va fi usor sa reinnod legatura, unii cu care probabil nu voi mai fi pe acceasi "lungime de unda" niciodata. Oameni cu o mulţime de opinii despre experienta mea, despre ceea ce ar trebui să fac in continuare, despre viaţa mea. Viaţa MEA, adica.
Probabil asta se va întâmpla. Categoric. Poate.

Speriata de moarte, am spus … deci de ce imi e frica?
Că nu voi putea să ma reconectez cu prietenii mei vechi. Că am crescut foarte mult cu totii in ultimii patru ani, şi am crescut cu viteze diferite şi în direcţii diferite.
Că nu voi putea să găsesc cu uşurinţă noi prieteni care imi împărtăşesc punctul de vedere asupra lumii şi a vieţii, oamenii care gândesc la fel şi isi trăiesc viaţa mai mult sau mai putin în conformitate cu aceleaşi principii ca şi mine.
Că membrii familiei mele (bunicile şi mătuşile fiind campioanele la acest lucru) vor continua să nu înţeleagă de ce nu pot fi si eu un "copil normal" ce işi trăieste viaţa asa cum "ar trebui" să o trăiască: să ma asez la casa mea, sa-mi gasesc un loc de munca stabil (putin stiu ele ca "loc de muncă stabil" e un oximoron in zilele noastre), sa-mi găsesc un soţ, un om bun pe care l-ar aproba, si sa fac apoi o pereche de copii pentru că "vreau să-mi cunosc şi eu nepotii înainte să plec ".
Că oamenii mă vor judeca, ma vor privi de sus sau de jos, ca nu vor înţelege de unde vin si unde ma indrept
Că tipul de la magazinul meu preferat nu numai ca nu ma va recunoaste, dar nici macar nu-si va aminti de mine
Că am uitat toate scurtaturile şi strazile fără trafic şi voi petrece jumatate din viata mea de acum înainte pierduta în propriul meu oraş, iar cealaltă jumătate blocata în trafic.
Că nu va fi uşor să găsesc sprijinul de care am nevoie pentru ce doresc să realizez in continuare
Că oamenii vor crede că sunt o ciudata şi vor arunca roşii in fereastra mea
Că, după cum spune mama, "toţi băieţii buni sunt luati încet".
Că voi functiona pe timp latin-american "Ah, evenimentul începe la 7? Bine, ajung si eu pe la 9 "
Că voi începe sa negociez cu şoferii de taxi

Că voi merge la piaţă să cumpar masa de prânz, sau voi cauta vazatorii de pe marginea drumului şi, cand nu-i voi găsi, voi striga din totii plamanii în disperare: "Unde sunt toate mamacha-le????"


Si...
sunt toate acestea suficiente să mă opreasca de la a merge acasă?
Nici o şansă! N-am stiut asta mai puternic niciodata. Asta e de facut, şi momentul e acum:).


Care sunt lucurile de care sunt cel mai entuziasmata?
O cameră / bucatarie / baie “a mea”
Condusul masinutei!!!!
Prosopul meu cel mare, moale si pufos. Cel roz.
Un dulap! Un d...u...l...a...p
Parfuuuuuuum
Sa-mi aud telefonul chiar sunand
Ruj!Oh, ruj!
Clatitele bunicii mele oricand imi doreşte inima
Pantofi cu toc. Oh ...Doamne, nu ma voi mai plânge niciodata...
O piesă de teatru sau un concert cu prietenii
Un duş despre care sa fiu sigura ca ma alimenteaza cu apă caldă până la sfârşit
Sa fac omleta cu tata
Sa merg la cumpărături cu mama
Sa vizionez emisiuni TV românesti (în special cele de cacao ... sau poate nu: p)
Sa merg la ceainaria mea preferata şi sa ma scufund într-o carte
Nopţi nesfarsite râzând cu cei apropiaţi


Concluziile după aceste 10 luni?
Una singura -
viaţa chiar e asa cum ne-o facem.

Amin! Ari! Aho! Haiaia! Asa sa fie!

Gracias a Todos, cu dragoste mereu!


 
Acte aleatoare de bunătate ... chiar functioneaza! PDF   Email
Joi, 01 Decembrie 2011 18:48

Cum dai...

Seara dinainte de a părăsi Argentina suntem într-un magazin cumparand ceva de cină şi, cum aşteptam la coada, vedem un baietel în faţa noastră. Are cam 7-8 ani şi ţine strâns in mana doua pachete de bomboane Skittles. Il vad framantandu-se ... o privire îngrijorată pe faţa lui micuta. 


Cand ii vine rândul inghite cu greu in sec si ii intinde doamnei de la casa dulciurile. Suspecteaza. Preţul apare pe ecran ... o umbră întunecată ii trece peste faţa. Acum ştie cu certitudine! Se uita la ecran, la banii în mână ... apoi la ecran din nou. Inghite din nou in sec. Doamna ii ia banii din mâna, vede că nu sunt de ajuns şi ii spune.


Intreaga lume i se prăbuşeste intr-o secunda! Acum e oficial, acum ştie si ea... E confuz, nu poate renunta la dulciurile sale favorite ... dar suma de pe ecran pur si simplu nu se potriveste cu banii pe care îi are în mână. Doamna ii sugereaza sa schimbe unul dintre pachetele de bomboane cu altul mai ieftin. Înainte de a avea timp sa reacţioneze, intervin si ii spun caseritei ca acoperim noi suma ce lipseste. Ea zâmbeste şi ne saluta gestul, pe cand băiatul e prea şocat să se uite macar la noi. Inima da probabil sa-i iasa din piept de timiditate, şoc şi fericire pură. Iese repede din magazin fara sa se uite inapoi, şi ne lasa cu cel mai grozav sentiment – acela că tocmai am fericit ziua cuiva! 



... asa primesti

A doua zi suntem în autobuz inspre Brazilia, destinatia finala Rio de Janeiro. Pregatiti aşa cum suntem de obicei, nu avem la noi nici un cent in moneda locala. Autobuzul opreste pentru masa de prânz şi intram în restaurant, mai mult ca sa pierdem timpul decât să mancam pentru ca ştiam bine ca nu putem cumpăra nimic. Mai mult decât atât, o dată ce intram ne dam seama că pranzul ar fi fost peste bugetul nostru oricum. Dam totusi o tură întreaga, e tip bufet şi se plăteste pe kg, asa ca suntem fascinaţi de marea varietate de feluri de mancare. Au brânză la grătar (care arata divin!) si tot felul de alte lucruri ce arata bizar ...tipul de acolo are un zâmbet imens şi ne tot ofera diferite lucruri sa gustam (limba de vaca fiind una dintre ele), iar noi ne luptam sa-i explicam ca nu vrem să-l refuzam, dar chiar nu mancam carne.


Imediat ce ne terminam turul şi ne pregătim sa ieşim din restaurant, un om de varsta mijlocie ne prinde din urma şi începe să ne vorbească în portugheză, cu inconfundabilul accent brazilian. Mă lupt să înţeleg şi-mi dau seama ca asta e ceea ce omul spune (pe scurt): "Sunteti tineri, călătorind, poate cu buget strict, doresc să va invit sa luaţi prânzul aici pe cheltuiala mea". Nu ne vine a crede la început, suntem uluiti şi nu ştim nici măcar ce să răspundem. El continuă să spuna că suntem tineri şi vrea să ne ofere masa de prânz, adăugând la sfârşit: "Va ofer din toata inima". Suntem încă şocaţi si ştim că autobuzul e pe cale să plece, aşa că îi mulţumim (din toata inima) şi încercam să-i explicam într-un amestec de spaniolă, engleză şi portugheză că suntem ok si apreciem cu adevărat oferta sa. 


Ne intoarcem in autobuz cu niste zîmbete imense, ştiind ca asta e miracolul actelor aleatorii de bunătate:).



 
100 things I did in the past 365 days. In 13 countries PDF   Email
Miercuri, 25 Ianuarie 2012 16:14
  1. Spent time in a Hindu ashram on the banks of Mother Ganga

  2. Had 87 (or whatever... lost count) cups of chai in 34 days

  3. Climbed an active volcano in Chile

  4. Swam with pink dolphins in the jungles of Bolivia

  5. Went in search of anacondas

  6. Looked a piranha in the face and told it “bite me!” (which it almost did btw...)

  7. Slept in a salt hotel. Meaning a hotel made of salt. For real.

  8. Spent 36 hours on a ferry to the “End of the world”. Gained a whole new perspective on sea sickness.

  9. Flew over Patagonia in a 20 people plane and managed not to cry or throw up

  10. Rode on the neck of an elephant in Thailand

  11. Had a chat with the sea wolves in Chile

  12. Sand boarded in the most arid desert in the world

  13. Climbed Wayna Picchu, the peak seen in most Machu Picchu pictures

  14. Meditated inside the sacred Inka Monastery, the Machu Picchu

  15. Ate a dish of pasta and potatoes, with rice on a side – Peru

  16. Picked cocoa fruit, oranges and mangoes straight from the respective trees

  17. Built Eco houses in an Eco Yoga Park in Argentina

  18. Sang Hari Ram and Hari Krishna with hundreds of yogis on the banks of Mother Ganga

  19. Spend special days with an outstanding Inca Priest

  20. Rode a horse through hundreds of years old forests in Argentina. On my birthday.

  21. Almost got robbed in Montevideo

  22. Walked the streets of Uruguay with a mate cup in one hand and a thermos in the other - the real Uruguayan way

  23. Spend 10 days in silent meditation in the Sacred Valley of Peru (Buddhist meditation retreat)

  24. Gained a complete perspective change on the favelas in Rio de Janeiro

  25. Numbed my legs while samba-ing at the rehearsals of one of the best samba schools in Rio de Janeiro

  26. Put cow urine in my hair, in India (holy cow urine, that was)

  27. Stood speechless in front of the majesty of the Taj Mahal

  28. Had the best foot massage of my life in Siem Reap, after 3 days of walking through the temples of Ankor Watt, Cambodia

  29. Checked out the place where Lord Krishna spent his childhood years

  30. Spent 3 days on a motorbike, covering 500km of Indian land

  31. Had a motorbike accident, an infected hand and a powerful revelation that life was too precious and too short for... anything else

  32. Ate too much street food

  33. Ate more pizza in two months that in my entire life up to that point – Argentina

  34. Drank more great wine in two months than in my entire life up to that point – Argentina

  35. Understood that not all Hindu temples are the same

  36. Prayed with some hundreds of Shiks in the Golden Temple in Amritsar, India

  37. Rode camels in the desert

  38. Rode a train in Mumbai – quite brave endeavor indeed!:)

  39. Shared a tiny auto with 17 other people in India

  40. Wore a sari, a lengha, a kurta... or more

  41. Listened to Mr Desert share his life story around the fire in the middle of the desert

  42. Had my feet tickled by Doctor fish (dead skin eating fish) in Cambodia

  43. Presented the Petronas Towers to my parents

  44. Made friends with monkeys in India, Thailand and Bolivia

  45. Said see you later alligator to a real alligator

  46. Ate my last durian in Singapore... for a while to come

  47. Finally had those much craved for croissants in Paris

  48. Petted my first baby llama and baby sloth. The sloth winked at me. I swear it did.

  49. Had Inka Cola and Chicha (Peruvian corn “beer”)

  50. Visited the most famous silver mine in South America

  51. By the Lake Titikaka I set and wept

  52. Marveled at the graciousness of pink flamingos in Chile and Bolivia

  53. Had a bath in a hot pool in the largest geyser field in South America. 8am, -7 degrees.

  54. Patagonia, was invited by the ferry captain up in his cabin, then given a personal tour of Puerto Toro, the Southern most inhabited point on planet Earth

  55. Stared and stared at Perrito Moreno, Argentina's gorgeous blue glacier

  56. Finally experienced being served wine and champagne for dinner on a bus – Argentina

  57. Saw the unbelievable: bread – 37 pesos, wine – 30 pesos

  58. While staring at Casa Rosa in Buenos Aires, saw Evita in my mind's eye giving her famous speech from the famous balcony

  59. Went to the circus in the capital of Paraguay

  60. Walked through beautiful Jesuit ruins in Paraguay

  61. Got drenched in the Iguazu Falls

  62. Got a close look at the huge Jesus hugging Rio de Janeiro

  63. Fell in love with Brazilian feijao, acai and caipirinha

  64. Paid 1USD to enter the public toilet on Ipanema beach in Rio

  65. Became addicted to beach volleyball on Copacabana beach

  66. Was escorted by fire flies out of the largest urban forest in the world

  67. Partied and samba-ed the nights away, Brazilian style

  68. Attended my first ever bull fight

  69. First ever Andean baptism

  70. Made and sold truffles on the streets of Peru

  71. Took part in a Temazcal (sweat lodge) and fire ceremonies in a Tipi

  72. Bathed in waterfalls

  73. Managed an impressive 93 mosquito bites in 3 days (not counting my back).With repellent constantly covering my skin, that was.

  74. Visited the people living on the floating islands on Lake Titikaka

  75. Had a picnic on an island full of cactuses, in the middle of a salt desert

  76. Said “hi” to the largest rodent in the world. Then “bye”. Quickly.

  77. Crashed countless weddings in India

  78. Stuffed myself with the best Indian vegetarian food

  79. Sat next to people who were savoring a guinea pig in Peru. Fought hard to keep my own food in.

  80. Spent 60 hours straight on a bus crossing Brazil from East to West. Yes, I did shower during that trip.

  81. Spent 28 hours on a bus that was supposed to take 16. No, I didn't shower during that one. I also managed not to kill myself either.

  82. Found pink flamingos feathers by colorful lagoons

  83. Drank Tsunamis in Chile and Submarinos in Argentina

  84. Exchanged stories with the papacho selling churros by the road side in the Sacred Valley of Peru

  85. Entered 2012 around a fire with beautiful people and a crazy dog, under the fabulous star filled sky and in the sweet sounds of accordion, guitar, drums and divine voices

  86. Woke up at 4 am for 10 consecutive days… and meditated

  87. Had the greatest conversations... with myself

  88. Had lunch on the floor of the bus station in Sao Paolo...

  89. ... and caught a guy red handed slowly walking away with my small backpack

  90. Wore the most mismatching outfits and colors and did not care about it for one second

  91. Had a band rehearsal on Christmas night

  92. Ate raw fish soaked in lemon, with crispy corn and sweet potatoes

  93. Bowed in front of the birth place of the Sun God, on the Sun Island in Lake Titikaka

  94. Barbecued vegetables and burnt them beyond recognition. Three times.

  95. Danced my socks away with some hundreds of Brazilians at a concert of the famous Celebrare

  96. Out of the 12 months on the road, I spent 5 as a guests

  97. Mountain biked on an actual mountain

  98. Ran after a donkey down a mountain for 2 hours, on a trail that normally takes 4

  99. Bought flowers from an old lady and shared them with a whole train going to Machu Picchu.

     

    100. Smiled, laughed, cried, ate, prayed, loved, learned, danced, jumped, marveled, glowed, wrote, enjoyed, understood, accepted, thanked. Lived.

 
Random acts of kindness... it really works!:) PDF   Email
Luni, 08 August 2011 01:36

So we're in this shop in Argentina and, as we wait in line, we see this kid in front of us. He's about 7-8 yrs old and he's holding tightly to a couple of packs of Skittles. I see him fretting... he's got a worried look on his face.

His turn comes and he swalows heavily as he hands the sweets to the cashier lady. He suspects it. The price appears on the screen … a dark shadow passes over his face. Now he knows it! He looks at the screen, looks at the money in his hand... looks at the screen again. He swallows. The lady takes the money from his hand, sees it's not enough and tells him.

His world collapses! Now it's official, now she knows it too... He's confused, he cannot let go of his favorite sweets... but the numbers up there just don't match the money he had in his hand. The lady suggests to swap one of the sweets for a cheaper one. Before he has a chance to react, we intervene and tell her we'll cover the balance. She smiles and commends our gesture, but the boy is way to shocked to even look at us. His heart is probably racing with a combination of shyness, shock and sheer happiness. He rushes out of the store and leaves us with the best feeling ever - the feeling that we've just made someone's day!

A few hours later we're on the bus crossing into Brazil, destination Rio de Janeiro. Prepared as we usually are, we don't have one cent of the local currency. The bus stops for lunch and we go into the restaurant, more just to pass the time than to actually eat, as we know we can't really buy anything. Moreover, once we go in we realise lunch there would be over our budget anyway. We do go the whole round though, it's a buffet and you pay by kg so we're just mesmerized by the great variety of the food there. They have grilled cheese (which looks divine!) and they have other funny looking things as well... the guy there has a huge smile and he keeps offering us different things to taste (cow tongue being one of them) as we struggle to explain we don't want to refuse him, but we really don't eat meat..;

Anyway, as we finish our round and prepare to exit the restaurant, this middle aged man catches up with us and starts talking in portuguese, with the of course unmistakable brazilian accent. I struggle to understand and I realise this is what he's saying (in brief): 'You're young people, traveling, maybe on a budget, i'd like you to have lunch here on my expense'. We can't really believe it at the beginning, we're just shocked and we don't even know what to reply. He continues to say we're young and he wants to offer us lunch, adding at the end: 'I am offering it from my heart'. We're still shocked and we know the bus is about to leave, so we thank him (from the heart) and try to explain in a mixture of spanish, english and portuguese that we're fine, and we really appreciate his offer.

We get back on the bus with huge smiles on our faces, knowing this is the miracle of random acts of kindness:). 


 
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